Chris and Liz Gardner set off from Back Bay
New Zealand Outdoor Instructors’ Association Bush Leader and senior writer Chris Gardner shares his experience of walking the second day of the Nuku Walk in the King Country on St Valentine’s Day.
The Nuku Nine start the climb from Back Bay to Front Bay on the Nuku Walk. Photo: Chris Gardner
Two trampers climbed to the ridge of the Nuku sand dune like ants climbing an ant hill.
The pair were two of nine walking the private three-day Nuku Walk in the King Country. They had opted to take the short cut across farm land on the second day, putting them about an hour ahead of the rest of us.
We had all begun the climb from Back Bay that morning to the 243-metre-high Te Ranga, and our advance party broke off when the opportunity arose. The rest of us took the long way around and enjoyed walking through rugged stock filled hill country to expansive views of the Tasman Sea as it smashed against Nukuhakari Station’s cliffs. From the cliffs we headed back down to sea level to the beach at Ngararahae Bay.
It was St Valentine’s Day, and we had loved every minute of the second 13km leg of the Nuku Walk.
The Nuku dune towered above us, it’s ever shifting ridge reaching approximately 80 to 100 metres from the sea.
Of all the terrain I have encountered on my travels, this was the most unusual.
Hailing from the Isle of Wight, in the UK, I have walked many coastal paths at sea and cliff level. I have generally avoided tramping along the beach or up and across sand dunes, even if there was a well-trodden path. But the beach and mountainous sand dune could not be avoided.
Hamish Nelson and Bridget St George, who have operated the private walk on their family-owned sheep and beef station for nearly a season, have led a team of staff and volunteers in painstakingly replanting the bay’s dunes over a decade.
It’s one of the most pristine environments I have seen, despite the occasional marker post telling you which way to go, and the footprints of trampers who have walked the path before you. The dune is all the better for the fact that it is only accessible to small groups.
Ascending the Nuku dune is the most unusual part of the Nuku Walk. Photo: Chris Gardner
The sun sets over our cabin dominated by Mangangū Pā at Front Bay, Nukuhakari Station. Photo: Chris Gardner
It took us about an hour to traverse the southern side of the dune and walk along the top of the ridge to towering cliffs.
From the dune’s ridge we continued over farm land and along the cliff until we reached the old staircase, a zig zag path down the cliff to Front Bay. Last century former owners of the station sent animals down the narrow staircase to the beach where they had been shipped to the saleyards or meat works.
Pizza dough and toppings were waiting for us at Front Bay, courtesy of the station’s Japanese chef, along with our bags.
Front Bay gave us amazing sunset lit views of Mount Taranaki to the south and Mangangū Pā to the north.
It was St Valentine’s Day, and we had loved every minute of the second 13km leg of the Nuku Walk.
Looking down on Front Bay from the top of the flax lined staircase down to the beach. Photo: Chris Gardner
The Nuku dune is glimpsed from the south before you descend to the beach to ascend the dune. Photo: Chris Gardner
Front Bay delivered amazing views of Mount Taranaki at sunset. Photo: Chris Gardner
The Nuku dune is glimpsed from the south before you descend to the beach to ascend the dune. Photo: Chris Gardner
Chris and Liz Gardner set off from Back Bay on the second day of the 30km Nuku Walk. Photo: Chris Gardner
